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Partyon

Cool casseroles

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The French whip up cassoulet, the Greeks make pastitsio and the British offer Shepard's Pie. As with many things culinary, Americans lay claim to the least exciting incarnation: Tuna Noodle Casserole. At its best, a comfort food classic; at its worst, a gelatinous mass of bland flavors, bound together with canned mushroom soup.

It-like most casserole standards-is easy to reinvent. Replacing canned soup with real mushrooms and milk improves texture and taste; fresh herbs add savory flavor and a hint of Sherry brings a complex nuttiness into play. A perfectly crisped, salty crust of fresh bread crumbs and specialty cheese adds the final flourish.

Why bother modernizing a dish as tired as the casserole? Because few meals are as satisfying-or as simple. They can be prepared ahead of time and cooked unattended. Paired with a salad, they are a complete and unfussy meal.—Kristin Wolfe Bieler

Kristin Wolfe Bieler writes for GQ, CITY and Woman's Day.

Photography by Mark Ferri

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