Eating Underground

Underground supper clubs are something I've heard about but never experienced until recently, when a friend brought me to the home of chef Eskender Aseged—founder of Radio Africa & Kitchen—a nomadic restaurant in San Francisco. Aseged, originally from Ethiopia, has become popular by word of mouth for his delicious, healthful Red Sea-meets-Mediterranean food. What began as an “anti-restaurant” movement in Northern California and Oregon has become a popular choice for aspiring chefs who have the motivation and talent but not the funds for a storefront. Eating adventurers have also piled into roaming spaces throughout New York, Seattle and Austin, Texas, to name a few.

Here's how it works: You make a reservation, pay the prix fixe fee when you walk in, chose a place at one of the long tables, plunk down the wine you brought and start eating and meeting the other guests, usually around 30 or 40 people who also like an eating adventure. If you can’t get a home reservation, next time you’re in the Bay Area, you can also enjoy Aseged’s meals—on Wednesdays and Thursdays at Velo Rouge Cafe, and every other Sunday at Sweet Adeline Bakeshop in Berkeley. —Denise Shoukas

Denise Shoukas is a regular foodspring.com contributor and is the author of foodspring’s food forager blog.