Getting to Know You Hungarian-Style

My favorite way to get to know a place is through food. More than just eating out, I like to leave with a recipe or two. In 2000, I traveled to Hungary for a second time to attend my dear friend Julie’s wedding. We celebrated at the top of a mountain overlooking Lake Balaton. A hefty Hungarian cook stood over a cauldron of steaming goulash, which we ate at long picnic tables with crusty bread and homemade wine. Despite the fact that the cook was dripping with sweat, bare-chested and wearing an apron without a shirt (see photo), I was not shy about sidling up to the caldron for more. (Sweat is part salt, so what’s the harm?) Sadly, I was unable to get the recipe out of this mountainous gleaning man.

Refusing to leave empty handed, I asked Julie to set up a cooking afternoon with a colleague of hers, Ildiko. We met to spend an afternoon making galuska and marha porkolt (two dots on each o), a savory beef stew served with homemade noodles. Afterwards, our mutual friends joined us to enjoy the fruits of our labor. Ildiko and I didn’t share a common language—only a desire to share good food. She was eager to share her favorite dish, and I was equally as eager to learn to cook Hungarian food. I followed her along to shops to buy the ingredients.

I observed, took notes, attempted to make the noodle dough the right consistency to scrape it through the noodle grater and contently stirred the aromatic stewing beef. We laughed and spoke through eye contact and smiles. It was a delicious success. Before I left the country, I had a noodle grater in my luggage.

I remember that afternoon more than much of the sightseeing I did on that trip to Hungary. And I still have the recipe and the chance to revive those memories every time I make it.--Denise Shoukas