Know Your Italian Cheeses?

For many people the image of Italian cheese is still processed mozzarella on pizza or imitation Parmesan in a cardboard container. But, there are hundreds of Italian cheeses-Parmigiano-Reggiano, Gorgonzola, Asiago, Piave and Grana Padano to name a few.

The Italians have been practicing the ancient art of cheese making since the Roman Empire. Today, as back then, cheese is not only an integral part of Italian cuisine, but also one of the country's most vital exports. Italian cheeses range from soft to hard, creamy to flaky, mild to pungent, and made from the milk of cows, sheep, goats and even buffalo. Each of the great cheeses of Italy comes from a particular region of the country, giving it a distinctive flavor, texture and aroma.

Here are some great Italian cheeses:

Parmigiano-Reggiano: Made exclusively in the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, parts of Bologna and parts of Mantua for more than 700 years, this grainy raw cow's-milk cheese is typically aged two years and has a big, piquant taste. There are lots of imitators from other countries, but you can tell the real thing by the name stamped into the edible rind. While many know Parmigiano-Reggiano only as a grating cheese, it is regularly enjoyed as a table cheese in Italy. It is considered not only one of the great cheeses of Italy, but, to many, the world's greatest cheese.

Grana Padano: Grana Padano, made in the Po Valley, is a grainy cow's-milk cheese aged from 12 to 22 months. The milk used for Grana Padano can come from anywhere in the region, and the cheese is made anytime of the year. Due to a shorter aging time, Grana Padano is less expensive and has a milder flavor than Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Pecorino Romano: Pecorino is the generic name for Italian sheep's-milk cheese. Pecorino Romano is a sharp, aged grating cheese made just outside of Rome. What Parmigiano-Reggiano is to the north, Pecorino Romano is to the south. And like Parmigiano-Reggiano, you'll know you've got a real Pecorino Romano by the stamped rind. Romano is best grated, although many eat this super-sharp cheese straight. Other Pecorino varieties include Pecorino Toscano, a soft sweet-tasting cheese made in the hills of Tuscany, and Pecorino Sardo, a firm, subtly sharp cheese with a rind often rubbed with olive oil.

Mozzarella di Bufala: A fresh, pulled- or spun-curd cheese, Mozzarella di Bufala is made in southern Italy from the milk of water buffalos. This sweet, moist, mossy-smelling cheese with a springy texture comes in the shape of a ball. Mozzarella is often made with cow's milk and sold for half the price of the water-buffalo version. But most consider the latter, slightly sweeter version, far superior. Either way, fresh mozzarella is often enjoyed on its own or served with tomatoes, fresh basil and olive oil.

Gorgonzola: Gorgonzola is quite possibly the most popular-and the most imitated -blue cheese in the world. The characteristic blue veins once occurred naturally from a mold that developed while the cow's-milk cheese was cave-aged in Lombardy. Today, due to high demand, cheese makers pierce it with needles during aging, allowing oxygen inside and producing mold more quickly. Gorgonzola comes in two versions: sweet (dolce), which is mild but smelly, and sharp (naturale), which is aged and powerfully pungent. Gorgonzola goes just as well on crackers or paired with fresh fruit as it does on top of a juicy burger.

Taleggio: This rich and buttery, almost runny, raw cow's-milk cheese is made in Lombardy. Depending on the cheese maker and how long it's been aged, Taleggio can taste tart and salty, nutty or fruity or even beefy. It's often served atop polenta or a salad, with cheese and fruit, or just by itself. Taleggio has become more popular in the U.S. in recent years both to consumers as well as chefs who've taken to cooking with it.

Asiago: Bearing the same name as the small northern Italian village where it is made, Asiago de Allevo is produced in small batches from skimmed raw cow's milk. Dotted with small holes, it's a firm, rich, but mild cheese that comes in three variations: fresh (fresco) aged two to three months; medium-ripe (mezzano), aged three to five months; and slow-ripened (vecchio), aged nine months or longer. Extremely versatile, Asiago can be grated over pasta, cubed in salads, or eaten as a table cheese. It melts easily, so cooking with Asiago is another option.

Provolone: Provolone is like Mozzarella with a twist—literally. If you take some fresh mozzarella, rub it down with brine, twist some rope around it, and hang it up for a few months, you'll have Provolone. Typically made in southern Italy, this spun- or pulled-curd cow's-milk cheese comes in a variety of shapes and sizes-from half-pound rounds to 200-pound torpedoes-and in sweet (dolce) or sharp (piccante) versions. A mild, oily cheese, it's ideal on sandwiches.

Piave: This partially skimmed cow's-milk cheese gets its name from the River Piave which runs near where the cheese is made in northern Italy. Piave is much like Asiago in flavor and texture-firm and rich, but mild. It comes in two varieties: mezzano, aged between four and six months, and vecchio, aged for one year. Rapidly growing in popularity in the U.S., Piave is often grated or eaten as a table cheese.

Ricotta: Not really a cheese, Ricotta is created from the whey that is left over after cheese is made. Ricotta means "re-cooked," which is exactly what is done to the sheep's- or buffalo-milk whey in order to make this ultra-white, creamy and protein-rich dairy product. American Ricotta is typically made with cow's milk and is blander and sweeter than the Italian version. Ricotta is most often eaten like cottage cheese or used in pasta fillings or desserts such as cheesecake.

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