Q&A with Chef Mike Isabella

In this Q & A, "Top Chef" veteran Mike Isabella talks about the D.C. food scene, Graffiato’s Italian-inspired menu, and how his experience at "Top Chef" changed his culinary perspective. Read on, and then check out his recipes for broccoli salad and roasted potato gnocchi with lamb ragout and spiced yogurt.

Why did you decide to settle in D.C.?

D.C. is bigger than Philly and not as overwhelming as New York. I also saw an opportunity to be a part of the growing culinary scene that was happening in D.C. I knew I could make a name for myself here, a place where there is constant culinary growth.

How would you describe the D.C. food scene?

D.C. is a different city from when I got here more than three years ago. It was really always a steak and potato-style city with lots of small ethnic spots. It was not considered a great food city at all. Overtime, certain restaurateurs like José Andrés, Michel Richard [of Citronelle] and Wolfgang Puck [The Source] saw that there was opportunity here and opened up fine-dining restaurants. In the next couple of years, D.C.’s food scene is going to be competing with cities like Chicago and San Francisco.

What is your food philosophy?

It is all about classic flavor profiles and fresh ingredients that work well together. Like lemon, olive oil and sea salt, for example. Once you have the basics you can incorporate different techniques and textures. Flavors have to work well together and be what people understand. 

What inspired Graffiato?

I wanted to bring something to D.C. that was inspired by my Italian-American upbringing. Growing up, my family and friends ate at little hole-in-the-wall places, whether they were in New Jersey or in the Bronx, that had Italian-style eating—where we all shared dishes. D.C. does not have a big Italian community or really anything like that.

I’m also thinking ahead to when I have children; I want to bring up my son or daughter with the foods I grew up with. Graffiato will offer these classic Italian-inspired flavors.

What can we find on Graffiato’s menu?

Small plates and artisanal pizzas with seasonal ingredients influenced by the foods I grew up with. There will be a wood-fired oven and we will have items like wood-roasted clams, wood-roasted pork ribs, classic pizzas and pizzas that might have a twist like farmhouse cheddar, bacon and roasted leeks. We are making charcuterie in-house and will make fresh mozzarella to order so it comes out warm when it reaches the table.

Where will you source your ingredients?

Locally and from the East Coast as much as I can. Sure, I will have Italian classics like balsamic vinegar, but I plan to import as little as possible. I’m working on sourcing an American prosciutto and plan on jarring tomatoes in the summer to carry me over for the year.

What is your favorite thing to eat?

Pasta. I could eat it every day. And the dumpling platter at Wolfgang Puck’s restaurant, The Source.

How did the "Top Chef" experience enhance your culinary journey?

In season six in Las Vegas, I really thought I’d walk in and win. But I ran into other chefs who were truly amazing with techniques that blew me away. After I was eliminated, I was so inspired and encouraged to keep cooking and try new techniques. I staged at many restaurants and looked at food with a fresh perspective. It also opened doors for me to appear on "Top Chef All Stars."

What is one food everyone should try in their lifetime?

Food is a matter of opinion. I wouldn’t make anyone try something they didn’t want to. I can recall a funny story: When I tried a fermented Chinese Thousand Year black egg for the first time, it wound up being spoiled and I threw it up! I did give it another try, and now I really love it, especially in Chinese Congee.—Nicole Denis

Nicole Denis is a regular foodspring.com contributor
and is the author of foodspring’s foodie-mom blog.

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