Q&A with Chef Michael Bologna

What challenges did you face running food operations for some of the world’s greatest athletes at the Olympic Village?

The biggest challenges were the food and security issues. Given that we were preparing food for 10,000 athletes, aside from the sheer consumption, there were dietary needs and security issues. All trucks coming into the village had to be checked. It was my responsibility to make sure no food was tampered with. We had to work with the FBI, CIA, Secret Service and Georgia BI to coordinate security measures, and with the Georgia Department of Health and the FDA to make sure both were in agreement on food and health concerns.

You were the director of the Culinary Arts program that you established at Chattahoochee Technical College for 11 years before retiring in June. What culinary knowledge did you impart to your students?

For anyone thinking about a career in the culinary industry, they must understand that passion for cooking and creating is ongoing. You must enjoy serving and pleasing others through the service of food. It’s not about getting a cooking show on television; there are not a lot of TV jobs like Emeril [Lagasse] has. Being a chef is a lot of hard work and the pay is low, so it shouldn’t be a chore, it must be something you enjoy doing every day. Achieving success in the culinary industry can take anywhere from 7 to 10 years from when you first break into the business, so you must have the ongoing passion for it. Your passion should not be to open a restaurant; that is a goal. Your passion should be to perfect your culinary skills in order to achieve the goal of satisfying customers. Passion is never-ending. Once your passion ends, find another career—no matter what industry you are in.

While still running the CAP, you opened your own restaurant in 2008. Why, after so many years, did you decide to open Vingenzo’s?

The dining scene in Woodstock was changing and the climate was right to open a restaurant for residents to experience true Neapolitan cuisine, which was otherwise not available in the area. We opened in December 2008. That was actually quite risky. It was in the midst of one of the worst recessions in the country’s history, and we opened the doors on Friday the 13th! We have a large, loyal consumer base—some who dine at the restaurant an average of three times per week—and business continues to grow year over year.

To refer to Vingenzo’s as a pastaria and pizzeria is an understatement. Describe the restaurant’s philosophy and menu.

Everything is prepared in the old-style Italian way. Above all, everything is fresh and made on premises as much as possible. We make all of the pasta and pizza doughs [four types of pizza dough are available daily, including whole-wheat and gluten-free], the mozzarella cheese, sausages, dry cured meats, gelato and desserts. We do not have a walk-in freezer, [but instead] very minimal refrigeration space in order to ensure absolute freshness. There are no secondi courses—no proteins such as meats, poultry and fish—offered at Vingenzo’s, only meats that complement the pizza.

How often does the menu change?

The menu is the same every day, but certain aspects vary. For example, we offer four to five pastas every day, but the cuts change daily—rigatoni one day, maybe penne the next. Handmade gnocchi is offered every day with a gorgonzola sauce or cherry tomato and mozzarella sauce. The sauces are the same on weekdays. Daily pizzas include original and margherita, as well as bianco: mozzarella, fontina, prosciutto, arugula and Parmesan. We offer featured items on the weekends, and they change seasonally. During fig season, for instance, we offer a fig-gorgonzola dolci pizza with prosciutto. We email our customers the featured items for the weekend on Thursdays with images so they may plan accordingly. 

You were invited to prepare a banquet-style dinner for upwards of 80 distinguished guests at the James Beard House in New York City for a special affair that took place December 1, 2011. What was the event?

Banquets take place quite often at the James Beard House. Members of the James Beard Foundation are located all over the country and they dine out frequently. If they like what they see—and taste—they will invite a chef to come and cook at the JB House. I was the featured chef for the December event. It was a real honor and exciting to do something out of the box.

You created an authentic Neapolitan menu for the event. What were some of the featured items?

We had several hors d’oeuvres including assorted Housemade Crudo with Roasted Peppers and Citron della Senape, and White Bean Stew with Sausage and Black Kale. For entrees, we featured Osso Buco Tortelli with Gremolata and Roasted Demi Cream, Pan-Roasted Halibut with Sicilian Pistachio–Mascarpone Sauce and Butter-Stewed Baby Root Vegetables, and Braised Riverview Farms Pork Shoulder and Crispy Pork Belly with Creamy Polenta and Glazed Cipollini Compote. And for dessert, we had Mozzarella di Bufala with Chocolate Mirror Glaze and Chestnut, Honey and Balsamic Strawberries.

What inspires your cooking?

It is easy to cook when you use great ingredients. It’s all about respecting the ingredients—you must respect the ingredients. I used to tell students to feel the ingredients, taste the raw ingredients and know the flavor. This way you can understand how to marry the ingredients in a recipe. I strongly believe that less is more. If you do not taste the ingredient, why is it in the recipe? Obviously there are certain ingredients like salt you do not want to taste (if you taste salt, it’s too much). But if you put basil and oregano in a dish, you have to make sure to balance them so you can taste both. I look for a balance of flavors on the palate.

Do you have a favorite dish to prepare or eat?

I actually have two favorite dishes: Christmas Eve, the feast of seven fishes and Thanksgiving dinner American style. My father was born in Italy and my mother was Italian, but born in the U.S., so we always had a traditional Thanksgiving dinner with turkey and the typical—not Italian—side dishes. I loved it and still love roasting a turkey.

What is the one food you suggest everyone should try in their lifetime?

There are so many unique ingredients out there, it’s hard to narrow down to one. I’m always amazed at how many people have never tried a fresh pomegranate. Cortland apples are one of the most versatile and great-tasting apples there is, but they are difficult to get [outside] of New York State. People should also open their minds and close their eyes and try something like organ meats, octopus and even lamb. They’re missing out if they don’t try them.—Vanessa Facenda

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